Inside Florence’s English Cemetery Library

Inside Florence’s English Cemetery Library
photo by Samuli Lintula/Wikimedia

The English Cemetery in Florence. 

Sister Julia Holloway is an unconventional librarian. Her 7,000-volume library resides in Florence’s historic English Cemetery, a picturesque burial ground with ornate nineteenth-century marble tombs memorializing many members of the British and American communities in the Italian city, including the poet Elizabeth Barrett Browning. Sister Julia is a medievalist, author, and former university professor, known for her scholarly work on Dante, Chaucer, Julian of Norwich, and other medieval women mystics. After retiring, she took orders with the Community of the Holy Family. Soon after, the Swiss Evangelical Reformed Church offered her a live-in role restoring the cemetery, providing a home for herself and her books. In this space, Sister Julia lives as a hermit outside her order to focus on her research and writing.

Courtesy Sister Julia Holloway

Sister Julia Holloway in the library at Florence’s English Cemetery.

When she arrived over two decades ago, the cemetery was full of weeds and collapsed monuments, and the custodian’s house was in disrepair. Today, the tombs are restored, irises—Florence’s symbol—bloom among the graves, and the site, including the library, is open to visitors.

Sister Julia’s extensive library, including books she inherited from her father, a Barrett Browning scholar, and works on history, language, medieval mysticism, religious politics, and comparative religions, traveled with her from England, where she was born, to the United States, before finding a permanent home in Florence. “I’m glad I kept my books, as they allowed me to continue researching and writing,” she said. The collection includes works by notable cemetery residents like Barrett Browning as well as writer Walter Savage Landor, central figures in Florence’s Victorian literary community.

The library is open to all—students, scholars, researchers, teachers, and the public. “I dreamed of [creating] a free library,” said Sister Julia, “to which poor could come as well as international scholars.” She also set up a small press on-site, making limited-edition books using marbled endpapers and Victorian-era binding equipment.

Her collaborators in the cemetery’s transformation are members of Florence’s Roma community, who have been central to restoration efforts: building shelves, cataloguing the library, and repairing graves. “Roma were begging nearby when I first saw them; one had a nine-day-old baby. They were evicted from an abandoned warehouse during a storm, so I let them stay with me. In return, they repaired a collapsed wall and cleaned the entire house.” When she realized they’re often illiterate, she established the Alphabet School at the library to teach them to read. Now, she said, they are eager to write their life stories, which Sister Julia plans to publish at her cemetery press. She jokes that it’s the influence of being around all her books.

Photo by Lucarelli/Wikimedia

The tomb of poet Elizabeth Barrett Browning in the English Cemetery in Florence.

Daniel Mihai, one of her Roma protégés, apprenticed with a master stonemason in Florence and now restores tombs using historic technology. “He’s not allowed to use cement or modern tools,” said Sister Julia.

Sister Julia follows a disciplined life of prayer, writing, and service. She adheres to strict religious rules: rising at 4 am, daily prayers, Mass. Then, she makes herself an espresso and sits at her computer to work until visitors arrive. “I’ve produced more books since coming to live at the cemetery than I ever did in my academic career—at least one a year,” she said.

When I visited, she was editing Barrett Browning’s epic poem “Aurora Leigh” for Penguin. Reflecting on her life, Sister Julia said, “The cemetery has given me everything I didn’t know I was looking for—a place to write, a way to serve, and the chance to bring people together.”